The word kimono (literally, “clothing”) is
usually used in the narrow sense for the traditional Japanese wrap-around
garment, worn by both men and women, with rectangular sleeves, and
bound with a sash (obi). The word is occasionally used in the broad
sense as a term for clothing or for the native dress in general
as opposed to Western-style clothing (yofuku). The predecessor of
the kimono is the kosode (“small sleeves”), which was worn as an
undergarment from about the Nara period (710?794) and as the everyday
outer garment from about the mid-16th century. The term kimono gained
favor over kosode only in the 18th century (see also clothing).
In the Meiji period (1868?1912) many men began wearing Western-style
clothes, reserving kimono for formal occasions or when relaxing
at home, but only from the beginning of the Showa period (1926?89)
did the new style of dress become popular among women. Today most
women wear kimono mainly for social and ceremonial events or when
performing certain traditional arts. Children and young men and
women may wear kimono for such occasions as New Year, the Shichigosan
festival, Adulthood Day (see gempuku), graduations, and weddings.
Kimono may be unlined (hitoe), lined (awase), or cotton-quilted
(wataire). Unlined kimono are worn from June through September;
for everyday wear, stencil-dyed cotton yukata are most common. For
street or formal wear, materials such as silk gauze (ro and sha)
or fine linen (jofu) are used. Lined kimono are worn from October
through May and are mainly made of silk or wool. Today synthetic
materials are often used, and one-layer wool kimono are often worn
in winter. Cotton quilted kimono, or cotton-quilted robes called
tanzen worn over kimono, are for midwinter at home.
The ceremonial kimono for men is made of black habutae silk and
decorated in several places with the family crest (mon; see crests)
in white. Women wear different types of formal kimono. The dazzling
wedding costume consists of a white or red silk kimono with embroidery
or brocade. Married women wear dark-colored silk, with a lighter
design, for festive occasions and black silk, without a design,
for funerals.
Generally when dressing one first dons tabi (socks); top undergarment
and wrap-around underskirt; and then the underkimono (nagajuban),
which is tied tightly with a wide belt (datemaki). The nagajuban
has a collar (han'eri), usually white, which should show about 2
centimeters (1 in) above the collar of the kimono that is worn over
it. The left side of the kimono is lapped over the right in front;
the opposite is done only when dressing a body for burial. The technique
of donning kimono and obi was traditionally passed on from mother
to daughter, but today women often go to a special school to learn
how to achieve the correct effects.
A silk kimono is usually not cleaned as a whole unit but is first
taken apart along the straight, hand-sewn seams, then washed and
laid or stretched out to dry. After every wearing the kimono should
be aired. For storage, the kimono is folded in a set order along
the seams, wrapped in special paper (tatogami), and laid flat in
a drawer.
(Source:Kodansha
Encyclopedia of Japan
)
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